| By Jo Ann McCraw of Luv 'N Chins |
| Your Chinchilla ... Your New Family Member |
C ~ Curious little creatures will find anything you can imagine to get into.
H ~ Hypoallergenic --- no smell and no fleas!
I ~ Ingenious --- particularly when it comes to finding a place to hide.
N ~ Naughty --- only when you let them in areas they should not be in.
C ~ Clever in finding ways to get your attention is the little chinchilla.
H ~ Hungry --- especially for treats, and they will let you know it!
I ~ Incredibly unique is this little fur-ball.
L ~ Love is what you will learn from them because that is what you will get.
L ~ Laugher at all the antics they do is better than any medicine!
A ~ Adorable little rascals who happily reside in their cages, sleeping
peacefully while you work. When your work is done, they are ready to
play and help you laugh away all the troubles of the day.
*** They never need very much -- just fresh water and fresh food every day
and a little cage cleaning once or twice a week. In return they excitedly run
to greet you when you enter the room, want to play or sit on your shoulder
while you're on the computer or run across your papers. A favorite trick of
theirs is to steal your pencil while you do your homework, but it can give him
lead poisoning, so it's a 'no-no'. He/she may decide your homework is rather
tasty ... and will try it! Homework with nibbled edges may have to be turned
in to the teacher or your boss.
*** Be sure to schedule a special play time every day ... a minimum of 30
minutes ... try to make it the same time each day ... chinchillas prefer being on
a regular schedule. This time is just for you and your chinchilla ... no
distractions such as t.v. or a book. This is the time you bet to know your
chin and visa versa. The time will fly by with all the fun you'll have
watching him/her run and bounce off walls and furniture changing directions
with each bound of endless energy, but be sure to chin-proof before letting
him/her out of their safe cage.
*** Become a child again -- lie on the floor and let them play with you!
They'll tickle your nose with their whiskers and comb your hair with their
paws. If you're really lucky you'll get 'sugars', too. When they sniff and
smell, this is the proper way chins say "Hello." So please, say "Hello" in
return, in the proper chin manner, (go nose to nose and make a sniffing sound
as you move down their side. They will accept you as a 'big chin'. A most
delightful thought!
*** While you are on the floor, get a "chin's view" of all that is available to
get into and all the wonderful places to hide and explore, they will find
them, they are very curious creatures! Any opening over 1" in diameter (about
the size of a quarter) is a wonderful place to explore for the chinchilla, but
can be very dangerous for them! They can fit into the smallest of places!
(One of mine came up 'missing' and was found in the top drawer of my filing
cabinet. He got there by going underneath and up the back side of the
drawers. This works for dressers, too. They love cozy hiding places.
*** Beware: They are very fast and can get away from you in the blink of an
eye. Always close the door to the room so you will have only one room to
search, should your little one get loose/lost. They are also smart and strong
for their size and some will even learn how to escape from their cages when
you leave the room (they're a 'pint-sized Houdini'). It's wise to double-lock
the cage door and close the door to the room ... it's impossible to 'chin-proof'
the whole house.
*** Chin-proof, chin-proof, chin-proof! Chins have been known to jump
from and up to as high as 7 to 10 feet (their dept perception is not very
good)! Many people choose to play with their chins in the bathroom, because
it's small and easiest to watch where your chin is trying to hide. If you do,
make sure the lid is down and there is no water in the bathtub or sink! Why
the bathroom? It is the easiest room to chin-proof. Chin-proofing means you
make sure there is nothing your chin can get into that is dangerous. Dangers
for a chin can be anything they can find to eat or chew on that is not good
for them! They will chew on anything -- wood, electrical wires, your food,
even metals and plastic! Their little teeth are designed to demolish and
redecorate! Their speed and agility can allow them to, or cause you to,
topple/break a drinking glass/bottle or a jar. It's best to use a plastic bottle
with a cap, or a plastic glass with a lid or attached top while with your chin.
*** Don't worry about a fancy hut ... just a plain pine hut will do. They
will redecorate it to suit themselves! Keep some sanding paper handy to
occasionally sand down any rough edges or stains they may leave. If they
nibble down to and expose a nail or screw, remove or move it to a safer place
on the hut. Only untreated pine wood should be used for their hut! Hint:
Screws are usually easier to move or remove than nails are.
7" High 9" Wide 6" Deep
Made with 1" x 6" x 4'
Untreated Solid Pine
18 wood screws
4 metal "O" Rings
2 bolts with wing nuts
Cut: 2 sides 6" long
Top and Bottom 8" long
Back 9" long
** The softness of their fur is only surpassed by the spot in your heart they
will make if you will let them come in. A gentle voice and a snuggle close to
you is usually all they will need to calm them.
Hold them close, but not too tight, for their tiny bones are fragile, smaller
than toothpicks. Never, never squeeze or grab them. They have floating ribs
that can easily puncture their lungs, do not hold or grab them in the chest
area. A punctured lung usually results in a slow painful death for your chin
within 24 hours. Instruct anyone that is going to hold your chin how do hold
it properly.
Let them jump into your hand or scoop them up, supporting their hind feet
and body at all times. A chin must feel safe and secure for him to trust you!
If you feel you must hold one in place (for his safety) ... while letting him
nest in one hand (against your body or on a table) use the other hand to hold
him firmly, but gently, about an inch from the base of the tail. Do Not hold
them by the middle or end of the tail -- you can break it.
A chin's fur can easily 'slip' (or be released by a chin) when you hold it, if it
does not want to be held. This is a means of protection that dates back to
the chinchillas in the wild.
*** Taking the time to learn their personalities is delightful (each one has a
different personality). They have all the emotions and feelings people do,
please respect them for this. They will let you know what they want or need
in special ways. Pay close attention and remember what they do, the sounds
they make, or their location, when they want something to let you know for
future reference, what they want/need. Listen to their sounds and watch
where they stand in their cage. A wonderful site to help you understand
their sounds and what they mean is at:
http://www.chinchilla-sounds.de/index_en.htm.
*** Another reason for learning the normal things about your chin and
amounts of food intake, water intake and actions of your chinchilla is to
warn you of early signs of illness. When these things change, it can be a
warning.
In the wild, a chinchilla could not show any signs of illness, weakness or
injury, so it learned to hide or disguise this problem ... unfortunately, it still
carries this trait today. By the time you realize your chin is sick, it may
be/almost be to late. When a chin needs a vet, they need them NOW, not
later in the week or next week. Best to be safe rather than sorry!
*** Hungry? Some may turn their bowl over and stand on it to signal that it
is empty. Others may stand with their front paws on their bowl to show you
that their bowl is empty and they are hungry.
An empty water bottle is brought to your attention often by the chin
pushing it or rattling it. Empty, wash and re-fill with fresh water daily!
Try to get into a regular schedule for feeding your chin ... they thrive on a
schedule. You like your meals on time and look forward to them -- they do,
too! Morning and evening! A tablespoon or two each time for each chin.
You will learn to adjust the food amount by observing how much food is left
over or if the bowl is completely empty.
Wash their bowls daily ~ you would not want to eat out of a dirty dish,
would you? Treats added to or mixed in with the chinchilla pellets you feed
them will provide an opportunity for them to eat the treats and leave the
pellets or dispose of the pellets for the preferred treats. Please do NOT add
treats to your chinchillas' pellets or buy chinchilla pellets/food with treats in
them!
*** Treats are special ... make them so ... giving them separately. Use them
to reward your chin or to coax them back into their cage after play time.
Never feed your chin through the cage wires. Someone may stick a finger in
to pet them, only to find it will get nibbled (sometimes rather hard),
especially if there is the smell of food on it. Always play it safe -- wash your
hands and face before handling your chin. They do not have good sight, but
their since of smell is very good ... if it smells good to them, they will try to
take a bite of it.
*** Each chin has its own special places to be rubbed or scratched. Under
the chin, behind the ears, on the belly, under the arm and on the front of the
collar bone are places I have found they most enjoy. The pleased look on their
faces will be evident. The way they tilt their head, raise up their whiskers
and close their little eyes in complete contentment is the sign of a very happy
chin! Sometimes they even appear to be smiling.
But, keep in mind, some chins are ticklish when it comes to their whiskers ...
best to steer clear of the whiskers ... chins usually do not like to be tickled
and will let you know it.
*** Just like us, sometimes chins can be a bit "moody." If one pushes your
hand away with its paws or "barks" at you ... take this as a sign that it needs
'its' space.' Be respectful of this, the way you would want to be respected
under the same circumstances. But, talk softly to your chin and you may
change its' mind. Sometimes it just takes a little coaxing; but if you persist
and he continues ... don't 'push your luck' ... you may get a nip, a bite or even
get 'sprayed', if it happens to be a female chinchilla!
It just takes a little time to learn what is or is not accepted by your little
chin. You have things, actions or mannerisms you will not accept, so do
chins, respect this, please. If they bite, do not hit or fuss at them, you were
doing something wrong, figure out what you did wrong and do not do it
again!
*** Bath time is another time to enjoy -- just wear a painter's mask! They
will flip and turn in their bath dust fast and furiously, flinging dust into
the air with complete joy. Chinchillas prefer to be clean! Dust bathing is
best done in a room without carpet. The bath tub or shower stall are great ...
all you have to do is wash the dust down the drain (as long as it's just a
little bit of dust).
It doesn't seen to matter how much mess is made because you are laughing
so hard at this funny, furry little ball flipping over and over in a pan of dust
-- flinging dust clouds into the air, shaking it off like a dog, then doing it
again!
Such a strange way you might think to stay clean, but the dust absorbs the
excess oils and lanolin from the fur and keeps the fur soft, fluffy and in good
condition. The dust bath keeps the fur from matting, if the fur shows signs
of separating or matting, it's past bath time!
Please use dust bath dust ONLY ... not dust bath sand.
I give my chins a dust bath 2 to 3 times a week. Some will give their chins
dust bathes daily, but when the humidity is low (under 35%), sometimes due
to an inside heating system in the winter, this is not advisable and can cause
the skin to dry out and, sometimes, even break open.
*** Normally, the rule is: never put your chin in water, unless instructed to
do so by your vet, in an emergency situation. If he/she does get wet or
covered in something sticky you need to clean him/her. Very carefully rinse
away the sticky stuff with a warm, soft, dampened wash cloth or baby wipe
(or in warm water if he/she's really messy, but try not to get it any wetter
than necessary), then gently blot it with a dry towel (paper towels are
usually more absorbent than cloth, so line your towel or cloth with paper
towels), as you gently blow it dry. You can blow dry with your mouth or
with a blow dryer ... if you use a blow dryer, use it only on the lowest
settings (lowest heat and lowest blow settings) and constantly move the
dryer quickly back and forth and about 8 to 10 inches away from your chin ...
do not over heat your chin! Chinchillas will also easily chill when wet and
become sick, so please keep them warm until they are completely dry!
*** Temperature. The most comfortable temperature for a chin is between 60
and 70 degrees. Do not exceed 75 degrees ... this, for any length of time, can
be lethal. If you travel with your chin: do not, even for a minute or two,
leave him/her in the car. The temperature rises quickly inside a car - too
many chin owners have returned to their car only to find their precious little
one gone from heat stroke. When the outside temperature is 70 or 80 degrees
F, a car can heat up to 120+ degrees in less than 10 to 15 minutes! Result:
one dead chin. The best rule of thumb is to take the temperature (F) + the
humidity, if the total of the two numbers meet or exceed 150, your chin is in
trouble of heat stroke and/or death!
*** All the joy wrapped up inside a little ball of soft fur called a chinchilla
... this is what you now hold and are responsible for it's health and
happiness ... keep it healthy and happy and it may live 20 + years or more
when properly cared for by you!
*** Before you get your chin, find a good exotic pet veterinarian that knows
about and has had experience with chinchillas, not all do. He or she will
become your best friend when your chin needs care. These are usually listed
as exotic pet veterinarians. If you do not have an exotic pet veterinarian in
your area, find a vet that is willing to learn, or at least has had experience
with guinea pigs, gerbils and hamsters, if an exotic pet vet is not available.
Many veterinarians will prefer NOT to undertake the additional learning
necessary to care for chinchillas ~ do not assume they will be willing to do
so. Please, check it out!
Also, most regular vets see cats ... cats can carry feline distemper ... deadly
within 24 hours for a chinchilla ... and highly contagious! Do not wait to
contact the vet at a time when you really need him, give him/her time to
gather the information they will need to help you before your chin needs
him/her. It is best to let your vet see your chin when it is healthy, so that
they can have an idea what to compare it to when or if it becomes ill. If you
need to call the vet, be sure to be able to give him/her specifics as to why
your chin is not acting normal ... Decrease in water intake? Eating less? Not
as perky? Diarrhea or foul smelling poops? Runny or matted eyes?
Drooling? Mucous-covered feces. All these are a sign of illness and need to
be treated immediately! Also, check the qualifications of the vet that will be
covering for your vet if they will be out of town.
*** You need to find a suitable place and room for your chin to live.
Chinchillas can NOT be put in direct sunlight due to the possibility of
overheating or in a draft from a window or air vent (hot or cold). Remember
that the sun may shine in one window one time of the day and another
window at a different time, or will shine on different parts of the room at
different times of the day. Watch the path of the sunbeams throughout the
day. Chins need to be in an area that does not get a large amount of daily
traffic, for this is when they sleep the most. Your bedroom is normally
considered unsuitable, because night time is when chins play most and you
normally sleep. However, many people can become accustomed to the sounds
of their chins and sleep peacefully.
Supplies for Your Chinchilla
When you purchase the supplies for your chin, remember he will probably be
with you for many years. Their life span is on the average of 10 to 15 years,
some have been known to live as long as 20 + years, even up to 30 years or
more. Their supplies should be the best available that you can afford.
The cage should be at least 17" x 23" x 30" and two or three levels (and/or
wooden leaping ledges) with side and top wire no more than 1/2" x 1". The
1/2" by 1" or smaller wire is a must, not just a guideline. When a female chin
becomes pregnant and delivers her kits, the top one or two levels (leaving
only the bottom level accessible) should be closed off and not used until the
kits are 3 to 4 weeks old. Kits are born fully furred and eyes open. Usually
they will be playing within 15 to 30 minutes after being born. Kits will
usually climb (within 24 hour of birth) the sides of the cage as high as
possible ... they can climb up but not down ... when they reach the top they
will just turn loose and drop to the bottom. Please make sure the bottom
level or the whelping cage is no taller than 15" and that there is a good soft
layer of bedding at the bottom. Wire under their feet should be no larger
than ½" x ½" to avoid a foot or leg being caught and possibly broken, or the
use of a solid bottom is also good.
Some owners prefer wire, some wood and some a combination of wire and
wood. When using wood, remember, it must be cleaned regularly with
sandpaper, especially if your chin develops diarrhea or if it gets soiled with
urine. This will have to be your own personal choice. The wood should be
pine and not chemically treated! Please do not use pressed wood, plywood or
laminated wood. Most of these can contain a glue that is toxic to chinchillas
and can cause liver failure. Lamination will be eaten by your chin and will
not soften in the digestive track and can cause major internal problems.
Personally, I prefer a combination of both wire and wood, with a metal pull
out tray or drop in pan for easy cleaning and for the safety of your chin.
Stainless steel looks best, last longer and is easier to clean, is the most
expensive on the front end, but is the best in the long run. Galvanized steel
can be used, and is less expensive but does not clean as easily and can rust.
Aluminum is a 'no-no', it will be eaten by your chin and is dangerous for
them! Yes, they will eat aluminum! How would you like metal shavings in
your tummy?
Most cages come with a plastic pan, which is fine if there is a wire bottom
between the chin and the plastic pan. If not, you may find that your chin
has decided that the plastic is a good chew toy ... but not good for the
digestive tract ... no plastics, please! If there is no wire bottom, or if you
remove it, a metal pan of stainless steel or galvanized steel can be custom
made by a local metal-works business. Keep in mind your chin will need air
circulation, not a fan or a draft, but the air must be able to circulate from the
out side to the inside of the cage the same as the normal air flow in your
home. No aquariums, please! Caution: Aquariums provide no ventilation,
they allow heat to build up inside of them, moisture from the chin's urine has
a perfect breeding ground for bacteria in an aquarium or an enclosed cage
without ventilation. Wood sides or bottoms restrict air flow and are a
breeding ground for bacteria.
The hut and shelves are best made of solid pine wood, in my opinion. The
huts do not have to be fancy, the chins will 'redecorate' them to suite
themselves. :) The huts need to be at least 5 to 6" deep and long enough to
reach from side to side or front to back of the cage. I use a 5-sided hut and a
slightly smaller 4-sided hut attached to the top/side of the inside of the cage
as a 'look-out'. Note: I said attached to the side or top of the cage (with
screws and solid rings) ... huts can be flipped/turned over when chins play or
when they decide to re-arrange their cage, if they are not attached, a flipped
hut can kill/crush a kit or even an adult chin. Chins love to see what is
going on around them, please do not set cages on the floor, they prefer a place
where they can see everything that is going on.
Plan on sanding the wood a little, about every two or three weeks (more
often, if needed) to soften any rough edges where the chins have chewed it.
Also, if the hut is put together with nails or screws, keep on the alert for
chewed areas where your chin has exposed a nail or screw. Remove and/or
move the nail or screw. We use only screws, these are much easier to move,
when necessary. They also allow you to more easily replace sides of the hut
that have been chewed away. Some glues are toxic, please do not glue your
chins huts or toys together. Slide together or set in pieces are great, but
harder to replace. NO PLASTICS, please, this can be fatal to them. They
will chew on the plastic and the pieces of plastic they ingest will remain
sharp and hard can cause internal problems. PVC pipe is the exception to the
rule. PVC plumbing pipe comes off in a dust form, not in pieces. 4" diameter
"T"s and "Y" s are great for a chin to play in/hide in/sleep in. ;)
The bedding is best made of pine shavings that have been dried or come from
seasoned wood. Do not use cedar or other hard woods, because many of them
are deadly to chins. Do not use fresh, unseasoned pine. DO NOT use wood or
wood shavings that have come from pressure-treated wood. Be sure the wood
you use is untreated pine. Caution: Many wood beddings made for small
pets contain cedar, cedar is deadly to chins. Make sure the one you purchase
does not contain cedar. Cedar is often used to control odor and insects ...
neither of which is a problem with chinchillas. Chins do not have insects
(such as fleas) due to their beautiful thick fur, fleas can not reach the skin.
Changing the bedding once a week or more will control the odor of urine --
chins have no other odors, except the females in season, or if the chin is sick.
The food bowl is best made of ceramic, because it is usually the heaviest with
straight sides to prevent tipping. The bottom needs to be flat and rather
large in comparison to the size of the bowl. Straight sides are a must so that
it will not tip over. Chins tend to stand on the side of the bowl when eating.
Occasionally, even a ceramic bowl can be tipped over, which is not a problem,
unless a young kit is trapped underneath it. A metal food bowl that is
attached to the side of the cage is also a good option and can be found in the
bird section of most pet stores. "J" feeders, if you can find them, that are
properly attached to the cage are usually safe for the kits as well as the adult
chinchillas.
The water bottle should be made of glass, unless you like to clean up water
puddles and replace bottles frequently. Also, glass is easier sterilized. Chins
are notorious for chewing a hole in a plastic bottle, even when it is mounted
on the outside of the cage. However, a metal guard placed between the
plastic water bottle and the cage can often prevent the chins from chewing it.
DO NOT place water in a bowl for your chins, especially if there is a baby
kit. If a chin becomes wet, it can chill and become ill. Kits can drown in
even the smallest of bowls. The bottles should be sterilized at least once a
week and washed in hot soapy water daily. Rinse and refill with fresh water
daily is a MUST. Do not just add water ... empty, rinse and refill with
fresh water. Water contains microscopic germs that can multiply when water
is left over 24 hours. These 'microscopic germs' are usually harmless to us,
but can kill a chin. Bottled water, after opening, can also be a breeding
ground for germs.
The food should be made for chinchillas only, in my opinion. There are some
people that will tell you that it is okay to feed chins rabbit pellets, I do not
agree unless it is Manna Pro Sho. In the United States the hormones are not
added to rabbit food. But, as I feed my cats cat food, my dogs dog food, I
also feed my chins chinchilla food, made especially for them and their delicate
systems. Check the freshness date on the bag and also see if there is an
excessive amount of sediment at the bottom. If your chinchilla food is not
dated ... don't buy it! If there is very much sediment in the bottom, it may
mean the food is old or has been improperly stored and lost most of its
nutritional value. In this case, you would be giving them an empty filler
with no nutritional value. I use Mazuri Chinchilla Pellets, it has a date on
the container that will tell you the date it was made, this is known as the
mill date. It will retain it's nutritional value for 90 days from that date, if
properly stored, according to Purina Foods.
Food should be stored in a cool, dry place (preferably in a heavy air-tight
container), under 70 degrees. The higher the temperature, the faster it will
break-down. If you use a different brand of food from which your chin is
accustomed, then your food needs to be introduced slowly into the diet. The
first week feed your chin only its usual brand of food (the same as it was
being fed before you got it). This way your chin's experiences with changes it
is experiencing at this time is kept at a minimum. Chins do not like change.
The second week you can begin replacing 1/4 of the regular food with your
new brand of food, then half and half the third week, 3/4 new food to 1/4
original brand the fourth week, the last week and there after you can feed it
all the new brand. I always give you enough food to make this changeover
for your chin when you pick it up. Or, if you are going to use the same feed,
enough for about 2 weeks. Read the labels ~ I do not recommend any bagged
chin food that has expiration dates of more than 90 days or has preservatives
in it. Chinchilla food that is normally advertised as "Deluxe" usually has
added treats, please do not offer this to your chinchilla. Chins will eat all
the treats and leave the pellets ... just like a kid with the choice of ice
cream/candy or spinach, will usually take the ice cream or candy and leave
what is good for them.
The hay can be Timothy hay or alfalfa hay. I prefer the loose bale Timothy
hay for most of my adult chins and alfalfa cubes for the kits and
breeding/nursing females. The type of hay available in your area may be the
deciding factor as to which you feed them ... it MUST be fresh and free of
any bugs or mold. The hay can come in two different forms -- loose bales or
compressed cubes. Cubes should be broken up to a size that the chin can hold
in it's paws. Hay should be given to chins fresh on a daily basis for roughage
and nutrition in their diet and for control of the molar and pre-molar teeth
growth to prevent the teeth from growing into the jaws/brain/tongue of the
chin. Remove any uneaten hay daily, it can be soiled by a chin's urine! Hay
can mold and produce a deadly bacteria called listeria monocytogenes. If a
chin's teeth are allowed to grow and not kept in check with hay and a lava
stone available on a daily basis, this is called malocclusion ... at it's worst, it
is a painful death ... at it's best, it is uncomfortable and painful.
The dust bath dust can be purchased in most pet stores and should be placed
in a shallow pan (glass or metal) or a pan/container made especially for dust
baths. A thin layer (about 1/4" deep) of chinchilla dust should be placed in
the dish. The chin will do the rest. Which includes a dust cloud, so be
prepared! It is best to do this in a room without carpeting. The bathtub or
shower is easy to clean if you use them as the place for your chin to use it's
dust bath container.
The dust, if soiled with urine, (clumping is a sign of the dust being soiled
with urine) needs to be emptied and the container cleaned before being refilled
with a fresh layer of dust bath dust. Droppings should be sifted out after
each bath. If your chin is ill, use fresh dust bath dust each time and wash the
container between each use. When you see the dust darkening or becoming
grainy, it needs to be changed. Each cage of chins should have their own
dust bath ... no sharing containers between cages. Sharing dust baths
between cages can carry illnesses from one chin to another.
I recommend Blue Cloud dust bath, if accessible. Please do NOT use the
sand type of dust bath, it is very harsh on your chin's fur. But, if you, or
someone in your family is allergic to the dust bath, dust sand can be used, or
even better ... someone else in the family can give your chin it's bath in the
proper dust bath dust ... dust made especially for chinchillas.
Supplements can be vitamin supplements, nutrients or calcium. The vitamin
supplements can vary from special ones from your vet, to ones you can order
on line .such as the Kline Supplement, to their own treats. Calcium
supplements are found in calf manna or Alimax or cuttle bones, but know
your manufacturer and the quality of the calf manna. If, for any reason your
chins reject the calf manna, dispose of it ... it may be contaminated. Calcium
is a must with all chins, but especially with nursing chins and growing kits.
Vitamin C, with no added sugar, is a very good supplement. Papaya is a
good natural source for vitamin C. Nutri-Cal is also a good supplement to
keep on hand for nursing moms and sick chins, but should only be used in
place of treats not in addition to treats and in small amounts ... about the
size of a small pea per day, when they are sick.
A lava stone is a MUST and is used to help keep your chins' teeth (incisors
or front teeth) down to the appropriate size. Your chin will gently keep
grinding his teeth down to the proper size by using the pumice or lava stone.
This is necessary because if the teeth are allowed to become overgrown, it can
become painful and even deadly to your chin.
Should you choose an exercise wheel for your chin, please be very selective.
An exercise wheel should mount to the inside of the cage, with no sidebars in
which to catch or trap your chins' leg/foot/head (which could result in
broken leg, neck or amputated feet). Many chins have also been seriously
injured using wire wheels. An exercise wheel is not a necessity at first,
especially if you get your chin out to play every day.
I use one called the "flying saucer exercise wheel" ... this is my personal
choice and in my opinion the safest. There are no bars or wires to catch the
limbs/neck/head of the chin and they can see other things going on in the
room while they have their daily run. I like the tilted almost flat surface of
the wheel. The flying saucer wheels can be found at:
http://www.chin-chillas.com/index.htm. Exercise wheels should be at least
15 inches in diameter to assure they do not interfere with the proper spinal
growth of your chin. The rim of the wheel should be large enough that the
chin can not get their teeth around the rim and chew holes in it. Please,
again, do not use wheels made of plastic.
An exercise ball is made of plastic, but can not be chewed on from the inside,
and should be no smaller than 15" in diameter (jumbo size), anything smaller
will affect the curvature of the chin's spine as it grows. These balls are
especially useful when you do not have the time to turn your chin loose to
play (regardless, playtime should always be closely supervised). He can run
around inside the ball and follow you around the house or just do exploring
on his on and still be fairly safe. Be sure there are no open doors for him to
go flying down the steps! Set a timer and DO NOT leave him in the ball for
more than 10 to 15 minutes (he can become overheated ... the balls are almost
solid and will retain the body heat of the chinchilla). You will be surprised
at how quickly he learns to maneuver the ball. Some of my little ones enjoy
'chasing' the dogs through the house with it. Never use it outside in, the sun
will quickly heat up the air inside the ball the same as it heats up the air in
the car. Also, they have been known to break open ... it is next to impossible
to catch a chin outside. Beware of floor heaters or vents ... an exercise ball
can become super-heated if it rest near or on them while a chin is inside it.
These balls are also known to 'break open' when a chin really gets going good,
then comes to an im-moveable object, so please closely supervise your chin
when it is in an exercise ball. Wash the ball between uses.
Treats are a chin's specialty. Most chins love raisins, cranraisins (dried
cranberries), rose hips, dried papaya, unsalted hulled sunflower seeds, dried
whole wheat toast and/or fresh thoroughly cleaned *fruit and/or *vegetables
given in very small portions ~ one or two small pieces per day or every other
day, about the size of a sugar cube or smaller ... a piece of one, not of each
one. Keep in mind ... as small as a raisin is, in comparable size to a chin, a
raisin is the size of a softball!
*"No-no Treats" Fruits and vegetables grown with a pit in them, such as
peaches, should not be given to a chinchilla.
Please do not give your chin nuts, their systems are not made to digest them
and the oils in them can end in liver failure for your chin.
Please do not give them fruits in the citrus family, such as oranges, limes,
lemons, ect.
Fruits or vegetables high in water content, such as watermelon, lettuce and
celery can give your chin diarrhea.
Never, never give your chin meat or meat by-products (such as rawhide bones)
... they will eat them, but it usually kills them, by swelling and blocking
their digestive tracts within 24 to 48 resulting in death, usually. Their
systems are not made to digest meat. A chinchilla can not regurgitate, so
once it is in his system, it is there to stay ... this is why chinchillas can be
easily poisoned.
All of the information I have provided is from my personal experiences
with chinchillas or those I have answered for me by other more experienced
breeders or researchers. You may find many more questions as time goes by ...
please feel free to e-mail me at joannfryeb2@cox.net . I will be glad to try to
help you in anyway I can. There are no "dumb" questions, only regrets that
they were not asked. Please, feel free to ask anything if you are not sure
about the answer. If I do not know the answer, I will try to find it for you
or, hopefully, be able to send you in the right direction to get the answer.
Jo Ann of Luv 'N Chins
http://www.luvnchins.com/
joannfryeb2@cox.net
| If you would like to copy this and keep it for your personal use, you are most welcome to do so. If you reproduce it for any other reason, such as on a website, please e-mail me first! Thanks!!! |
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