Curious little creatures will find anything you can imagine to get into.
Hypoallergenic --- no smell and no fleas!
Ingenious --- particularly when it comes to finding a place to hide.
Naughty --- only when you let them in areas they should not be in.
Clever in finding ways to get your attention is the little chinchilla.
Hungry --- especially for treats, and they will let you know it!
Incredibly unique is this little fur-ball.
Love is what you will learn from them because that is what you will get.
Laugher at all the antics they do is better than any medicine!
Adorable little rascals who happily reside in their cages, sleeping
peacefully while you work. When your work is done, they are ready to
play and help you laugh away all the troubles of the day.
*** They never need very much -- just fresh water and fresh food every day and a little cage cleaning once or twice a week. In return they excitedly run to greet you when you enter the room, want to play or sit on your shoulder while you're on the computer or run across your papers. A favorite trick of theirs is to steal your pencil while you do your homework, but it can give him lead poisoning, so it's a 'no-no'. He/she may decide your homework is rather tasty ... and will try it!Homework with nibbled edges may have to be turned in to the teacher or your boss.
*** Be sure to schedule a special play time every day ... a minimum of 30 minutes. Try to make it the same time each day ... chinchillas prefer being on a regular schedule. This time is just for you and your chinchilla ... no distractions such as t.v. or a book. This is the time you get to know your chin and visa versa. The time will fly by with all the fun you'll have watching him/her run and bounce off the walls and furniture changing directions with each bound of endless energy. But, be sure to chin-proof" before letting him/her out of their safe cage.
*** Become a child again -- lie on the floor and let them play with you! They'll tickle your nose with their whiskers and comb your hair with their paws. If you're really lucky you'll get 'chinnie sugars', too. When they sniff and smell, this is the proper way chins say "Hello". So please, say "Hello" in return, in the proper chin manner. Go nose to nose and make a sniffing sound as you move down their side. They will accept you as a 'big chin'. A most delightful thought!
*** While you are on the floor, get a 'chin's view of all that is available to get into and all the wonderful places to hide and explore. They will find them, they are very curious creatures! Any opening 1 inch or more in diameter (about the size of a quarter) is a wonderful place to explore for the chinchilla, but can be very dangerous for them! They can fit into the smallest of places! (One of mine came up 'missing' and was found in the top drawer of my filing cabinet. He got there by going underneath and up the back side of the drawers. This works for dressers, too. They love cozy hiding places.
*** Beware: They are very fast and can get away from you in the blink of an eye. Always close the door to the room so you will have only one room to search, should your little one get loose/lost. They are also smart and strong for their size. Some will even learn how to escape from their cages when you leave the room (they're a 'pint-sized Houdini'). It's wise to double-lock the cage door and close the door to the room. It's impossible to 'chin-proof' the whole house.
*** Chin-proof, chin-proof, chin-proof! Chins have been known to jump from and up to as high as 7 to 10 feet (their dept perception is not very good)! Many people choose to play with their chins in the bathroom, because it's small and easiest to watch where your chin is trying to hide. If you do, make sure the lid is down and there is no water in the bathtub or sink! Why the bathroom? It is the easiest room to chin-proof. Chin-proofing means you make sure there is nothing your chin can get into that is dangerous. Dangers for a chin can be anything they can find to eat or chew on that is not good for them! They will chew on anything - wood, electrical wires, your food, even metals and plastic! Their little teeth are designed to demolish and redecorate! Their speed and agility can allow them to, or cause you to, topple/break a drinking glass/bottle or a jar. It's best to use a plastic bottle with a cap, or a plastic glass with a lid/attached top while with your chin.
*** Don't worry about a fancy hut ... just a plain pine hut will do. They will redecorate it to suit themselves! Keep some sanding paper handy. You will occasionally need to sand-down any rough edges or stains they may leave. If they nibble down to and expose a nail or screw, remove or move it to a safer place on the hut. Only seasoned, untreated pine wood should be used for their hut! Hint: Screws are usually easier to move or remove than nails are.
7" High 9" Wide 6" Deep
Made with:
1" x 6" x 4' Untreated Solid Pine
18 wood screws
4 metal "O" Rings
2 bolts with wing nuts
Cut:
2 sides 6" long
1 Top and 1 Bottom, each 8" long
1 Back 9" long
** The softness of their fur is only surpassed by the spot in your heart they will make if you will let them come in. A gentle voice and a snuggle close to you is usually all they will need to calm them. Hold them close, but not too tight, for their tiny bones are fragile, smaller than toothpicks. Never, never squeeze or grab them. They have floating ribs that can easily break and puncture their lungs. NEVER hold or grab them in the chest area. A punctured lung usually results in a slow painful death for your chin within 24 hours. Instruct anyone that is going to hold your chin as how to hold it properly.
Let them jump into your hand or scoop them up, supporting their hind feet and body at all times. A chin must feel safe and secure for him to trust you! If you feel you must hold one in place (for his safety) ... while letting him nest in one hand (against your body or on a table) use the other hand to hold him by the tail firmly, but gently, about an inch from the base of the tail. Do Not hold them by the middle or end of the tail -- you can break it.
A chin's fur can easily 'slip' (or be released by a chin) when you hold it, if it does not want to be held, or does not feel safe. The slipping/releasing of the fur is a means of protection that dates back to the chinchillas in the wild. A predator would be left holding a mouth full of fur, much to his dismay.
*** Taking the time to learn their personalities is delightful (each one has a different personality). They have all the emotions and feelings people do, please respect them for this. They will let you know what they want or need in special ways. Pay close attention and remember what they do, the sounds they make, or their location, when they want something to let you know for future reference, what they want/need. Listen to their sounds and watch where they stand in their cage. A wonderful site to help you understand their sounds and what they mean is at: http://www.chinchilla-sounds.de/index_en.htm.
*** Chinchillas are, as a rule, very healthy happy little critters, but, as with any animal, problems can arise. This is another reason for learning the normal things about your chinchilla, such as the normal amounts of food intake, water intake and actions of your chinchilla. When these things change, it can be an early warning for you. In the wild, a chinchilla could not show any signs of illness, weakness or injury, or it would become easy prey. Chinchillas learned to hide/disguise health-related problems for this reason. Unfortunately, the chinchilla still carries this trait today. If you are not familiar with your chin's normal actions, by the time you realize your chin is sick, it may be/almost be, to late. When a chin needs a vet, they need them NOW, not tomorrow, not later in the week or next week. Best to be safe rather than sorry! An exotic pet vet is not cheap, but what is your chin's life worth to you? If you think your normal budget might not be up to the strain of possible vet bills, should a problem arise, please save up the money and set aside for this possibility, BEFORE you get your little buddy.
*** Hungry? Some may turn their bowl over and stand on it to signal that it is empty. Others may stand with their front paws on their bowl to show you that their bowl is empty and they are hungry.
Often an empty water bottle is brought to your attention by the chin pushing it or rattling it. Empty, wash and re-fill the bottle with fresh water daily!
Try to get into a regular schedule for feeding your chin ... they thrive on a schedule. You like your meals on time and look forward to them -- they do, too! Morning and evening! A tablespoon or two each time for each chin to start with. You will learn to adjust the food amount by observing how much food is left over or if the bowl is completely empty. Wash their bowls daily ~ you would not want to eat out of a dirty dish, would you? Treats added to or mixed in with the chinchilla pellets you feed them will provide an opportunity for them to eat the treats and leave the pellets or dispose of the pellets for the preferred treats. Please do NOT add treats to your chinchillas' pellets or buy chinchilla pellets/food with treats in them!
*** Treats are special ... make them so ... giving them separately. Use them to reward your chin or to coax them back into their cage after play time.
Never feed your chin through the cage wires. Someone may stick a finger in to pet them, only to find it will get nibbled (sometimes rather hard), especially if there is the smell of food on it. Always play it safe -- wash your hands and face before handling your chin. They do not have good sight, but their since of smell is very good ... if it smells good to them, they will try to take a bite of it.
*** Each chin has its own special places to be rubbed or scratched. Under the chin, behind the ears, on the belly, under the arm and on the front of the collar bone are places I have found they most enjoy. The pleased look on their faces will be evident. The way they tilt their head, raise up their whiskers and close their little eyes in complete contentment is the sign of a very happy chin! Sometimes, they even appear to be smiling.
But, do keep in mind, some chins are ticklish when it comes to their whiskers ... best to steer clear of the whiskers ... chins usually do not like to be tickled and will let you know it.
*** Just like us, sometimes chins can be a bit "moody". If one pushes your hand away with its paws or "barks" at you ... take this as a sign that it needs 'its' space.' Be respectful of this, the way you would want to be respected under the same circumstances. But, talk softly to your chin and you may change its' mind. :) Sometimes it just takes a little coaxing; but if you persist and he continues ... don't 'push your luck' ... you may get a nip, a bite or even get 'sprayed', if it happens to be a female chinchilla! It just takes a little time to learn what is or is not accepted by your little chin. You have things, actions or mannerisms you will not accept, so do chins, respect this, please. If they bite, do not hit or fuss at them, you were doing something wrong. Figure out what you did wrong and do not do it again!
*** Bath time is another time to enjoy -- just wear a painter's mask! They will flip and turn in their bath dust fast and furiously, flinging dust into the air with complete joy. Chinchillas prefer to be clean! Dust bathing is best done in a room without carpet. The bath tub or shower stall are great ... all you have to do is wash the dust down the drain (as long as it's just a little bit of dust).
It doesn't seen to matter how much mess is made because you are laughing so hard at this funny, furry little ball flipping over and over in a pan of dust -- flinging dust clouds into the air, shaking it off like a dog, then doing it again! Such a strange way, you might think, to stay clean. The dust absorbs the excess oils and lanolin from the fur and keeps the fur soft, fluffy and in good condition. The dust bath keeps the fur from matting, if the fur shows signs of separating or matting, it's past bath time! Please use dust bath dust ONLY ... not dust bath sand. I give my chins a dust bath 2 to 3 times a week. Some will give their chins dust bathes daily, but when the humidity is low (under 35%), sometimes due to an inside heating system in the winter, this is not advisable and can cause the skin to dry out and, sometimes, even break open.
*** Normally, the rule is: never put your chin in water, unless instructed to do so by your vet, in an emergency situation. If he/she does get wet or covered in something sticky you need to clean him/her. Very carefully rinse away the sticky stuff with a warm, soft, dampened wash cloth or baby wipe,or in warm water if he/she's really messy, but try not to get it any wetter than necessary. Gently blot it with a dry towel (paper towels are usually more absorbent than cloth, so line your towel or cloth with paper towels), as you gently blow it dry. You can blow dry with your mouth or with a blow dryer ... if you use a blow dryer, use it only on the lowest settings (lowest heat and lowest blow settings) and constantly move the dryer quickly back and forth and about 8 to 10 inches away from your chin ... do not over heat your chin! Chinchillas can easily chill when wet and become sick, so please keep them warm until they are completely dry!
*** Temperature. The most comfortable temperature for a chin is between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not exceed 75 degrees ... this, for any length of time, can be lethal. If you travel with your chin: do not, even for a minute or two, leave him/her in the car. The temperature rises quickly inside a car - too many chin owners have returned to their car only to find their precious little one gone from heat stroke. When the outside temperature is 70 or 80 degrees F, a car can heat up to 120+ degrees in less than 10 to 15 minutes! Result: one dead chin. Even in the winter, the sun can heat up the inside of a car beyond a chinchilla's tolleration level.The best rule of thumb is to take the temperature (F) + the humidity, if the total of the two numbers meet or exceed 150, your chin is in trouble of heat stroke and/or death!
*** All the joy wrapped up inside a little ball of soft fur called a chinchilla ... this is what you now hold and are responsible for it's health and happiness ... keep it healthy and happy and it may live 20 + years or more when properly cared for by you! Average live span is 12 to 15 years, but there have been some known to live longer.
*** BEFORE you get your chin, find a good EXOTIC PET VETERINARIAN that knows about and has had experience with chinchillas, not all do. He or she will become your best friend when your chin needs care. These are usually listed as exotic pet veterinarians. If you do not have an exotic pet veterinarian in your area, find a vet that is willing to learn how to care for chinchillas, or at least has had experience with guinea pigs, gerbils and hamsters, if an exotic pet vet is not available. Many veterinarians will prefer NOT to undertake the additional learning necessary to care for chinchillas ~ do not assume they will be willing to do so. Please, check it out! Do this long before you chin may need the vet ... it takes time to learn how to properly treat them. Should you not have an exotic pet vet, and you have to use a regular vet, keep in mind that most regular vets see cats ... cats can carry feline distemper ... deadly within 24 hours for a chinchilla ... and highly contagious! Please do not hesitate to tell a person that is holding or petting a sick animal not to touch your chin. We are finding more and more problems that domestic animals can pass on to chinchillas that may not be lethal for the animal, but can be lethal for the chinchilla. Do not wait to contact the vet at a time when you really need him, give him/her time to gather the information they will need to help you before your chin needs him/her. It is also best to let your vet see your chin when it is healthy, so that they can have an idea what to compare it to when or if it becomes ill. If you need to call the vet, be sure to be able to give him/her specifics as to why your chin is not acting normal ... Decrease in water intake? Eating less? Not as perky? Diarrhea or foul smelling poops? Runny or nose or watery/matted eyes? Drooling? Mucous-covered feces. All these are a sign of illness and need to be treated immediately! Also, check the qualifications of the vet that will be covering for your vet if they will be out of town.
*** CAGE LOCATION You need to find a suitable place and room for your chin to live. Chinchillas can NOT be put in direct sunlight due to the possibility of overheating or in a draft from a window or air vent (hot or cold). Remember that the sun may shine in one window one time of the day and another window at a different time, or will shine on different parts of the room at different times of the day. Watch the path of the sunbeams throughout the day. Chins need to be in an area that does not get a large amount of day traffic, for this is when they sleep the most. Your bedroom is normally considered unsuitable, because night time is when chins play most and you normally sleep. However, many people can become accustomed to the sounds of their chins and sleep peacefully.
When you purchase the supplies for your chin, remember he will probably be with you for many years. Their life span is on the average of 10 to 15 years, some have been known to live as long as 20 + years, even up to 30 years or more. Their supplies should be the best available that you can afford.
The CAGE should be at least 17" x 23" x 30" and two or three levels (and/or wooden leaping ledges) with side and top wire no more than 1/2" x 1". The 1/2" by 1" or smaller wire is a must, not just a guideline. When a female chin becomes pregnant and delivers her kits, the top one or two levels (leaving only the bottom level accessible) should be closed off and not used until the kits are 3 to 4 weeks old. Kits are born fully furred and eyes open. Usually they will be playing within 15 to 30 minutes after being born. Kits will usually climb (within 24 hour of birth) the sides of the cage as high as possible ... usually up to the top ... they can climb up but not down ... when they reach the top they will just turn loose and drop to the bottom. Please make sure the bottom level or the whelping cage is no taller than 15" and that there is a good soft layer of bedding at the bottom. Wire under their feet should be no larger than 1/2" x 1/2" to avoid a foot or leg being caught and possibly broken. The use of a solid bottom is even better, in my opinion. Some owners prefer wire, some wood and some a combination of wire and wood. When using wood, remember, it must be cleaned regularly with sandpaper, especially if your chin develops diarrhea or if it gets soiled with urine. This will have to be your own personal choice. The wood should be solid pine and NOT chemically treated!
Please, do NOT use pressed wood, plywood or laminated wood. Most of these can contain a glue that is toxic to chinchillas and can cause liver failure. Lamination will be eaten by your chin and will not soften in the digestive track and can cause major internal problems. Personally, I prefer a combination of both wire and wood, with a metal pull out tray or drop in pan for easy cleaning and for the safety of your chin.
Cage TRAYS Stainless steel looks best, last longer and is easier to clean. It is the most expensive on the front end, but is best and well worth the difference of the price in the long run. Galvanized steel can be used, and is less expensive but does not clean as easily and can rust. Aluminum is a 'No-No', it will be eaten by your chin and is dangerous for them! Yes, they will eat aluminum! How would you like metal shavings in your tummy? Most cages come with a plastic pan, which is fine, if there is a wire bottom between the chin and the plastic pan. If not, you may find that your chin has decided that the plastic is a good chew toy ... but not good for the digestive tract ... no plastics, please! If there is no wire bottom, or if you remove it, a metal pan of stainless steel or galvanized steel can be custom made by a local metal-works business.
Keep in mind your chin will need air circulation, not from a fan or a draft, but the air must be able to circulate from the out side to the inside of the cage the same as the normal air flow in your home.
NO AQUARIUMS, please! Caution: Aquariums provide no ventilation, they allow heat to build up inside of them, fumes and moisture from the chin's urine has a perfect breeding ground for bacteria in an aquarium or an enclosed cage without ventilation. Wood/glass/metal sides or bottoms restrict air flow and are a breeding ground for bacteria.
The HUT and SHELVES are best made of solid pine wood, in my opinion. The huts do not have to be fancy, the chins will 'redecorate' them to suite themselves. :) The huts need to be at least 5 to 6" deep and long enough to reach from side to side or front to back of the cage. I use a 5-sided hut and a slightly smaller 4-sided hut attached to the top/side of the inside of the cage as a 'look-out'. Note: I said attached to the side or top of the cage (with screws and solid "O" rings) ... huts can be flipped/turned over when chins play or when they decide to re-arrange their cage, if they are not attached, a flipped hut can kill/crush a kit or even an adult chin. Chins love to see what is going on around them, please do not set cages on the floor, they prefer a place where they can see everything that is going on.
Plan on sanding the wood a little, about every two or three weeks (more often, if needed) to soften any rough edges where the chins have chewed it. Also, if the hut is put together with nails or screws, keep on the alert for chewed areas where your chin has exposed a nail or screw. Remove and/or move the nail or screw. We use only screws, these are much easier to move, when necessary. They also allow you to more easily replace sides of the hut that have been chewed away. *Some glues are toxic, please do not glue your chins huts or toys together. Slide together or set in pieces are great, but harder to replace. NO PLASTICS, please, this can be fatal to your chinchilla. They will chew on the plastic and the pieces of plastic they ingest will remain sharp and hard can cause internal problems. PVC pipe is the exception to the rule. PVC (white plumbing pipe) comes off in a dust form, not in pieces. 4 or 5" diameter in the shape of "T"s and "Y"s are great for a chin to play in/hide in/sleep in. ;)
The BEDDING is best made of pine shavings that have been dried or come from seasoned pine wood. Do NOT use cedar or other hard woods, because many of them are deadly to chins. Do not use fresh, unseasoned pine. DO NOT use wood or wood shavings that have come from pressure-treated wood. Be sure the wood you use is untreated pine. Caution: Many wood beddings made for small pets contain cedar, cedar is deadly to chins. Make sure the one you purchase does NOT contain cedar. Cedar is often used to control odor and insects ... neither of which is a problem with chinchillas.
Chins do not have insects (such as fleas) due to their beautiful thick fur, fleas can not reach the skin. Changing the bedding once a week or more should control the odor of urine -- chins have no other odors, except the females in season, or if the chin is sick.
The FOOD BOWL is best made of ceramic, because it is usually the heaviest with straight sides to prevent tipping. The bottom needs to be flat and rather large in comparison to the size of the bowl. Straight sides are a must so that it will not tip over. Chins tend to stand on the side of the bowl when eating. Occasionally, even a ceramic bowl can be tipped over, which is not a problem, unless a young kit is trapped underneath it. A metal food bowl that is attached to the side of the cage is also a good option and can be found in the bird section of most pet stores. "J" feeders, if you can find them, that are properly attached to the cage are usually safe for the kits as well as the adult chinchillas.
The WATER BOTTLE should be made of glass, unless you like to clean up water puddles and replace bottles frequently. Also, glass is easier sterilized. Chins are notorious for chewing a hole in a plastic bottle, even when it is mounted on the outside of the cage. However, a metal guard placed between the plastic water bottle and the cage can often prevent the chins from chewing it. DO NOT place water in a bowl for your chins, especially if there is a baby kit. If a chin becomes wet, it can chill and become ill. Kits can drown in even the smallest of bowls. The bottles should be sterilized at least once a week and washed in hot soapy water daily. Rinse and refill with fresh water daily is a MUST. Do not just add water ... empty, rinse and refill with fresh water. Water contains microscopic germs that can multiply when water is left over 24 hours. These 'microscopic germs' are usually harmless to us, but can kill a chin. Bottled water, after opening, can also be a breeding ground for germs.
The FOOD should be made for chinchillas only, in my opinion. There are some people that will tell you that it is okay to feed chins rabbit pellets, I do not agree, unless it is Manna Pro Sho. In the United States the hormones are not added to rabbit food as they are in many countries. But, as I feed my cats cat food, my dogs dog food, I also feed my chins chinchilla food, made especially for them and their delicate systems. Check the freshness date on the bag and also see if there is an excessive amount of sediment at the bottom. If your chinchilla food is not dated ... don't buy it! An excessive ammount of sediment in the bottom, may mean the food is old or has been improperly stored and lost most of its nutritional value. In this case, you would be giving them an empty filler with no nutritional value. I have used Mazuri Chinchilla Pellets and Tradition Chinchilla Pellets, it has a date on the container that will tell you the date it was made, this is known as the mill date. Mazuri will retain it's nutritional value for 120 days from that date, if properly stored, according to Purina Foods.
Food should be stored in a cool, dry place (preferably in a heavy air-tight container), under 70 degrees. The higher the temperature, the faster it will break-down. If you use a different brand of food from which your chin is accustomed, then your food needs to be introduced slowly into the diet.
THE CHANGE-OVER The first week feed your chin only its usual brand of food (the same as it was being fed before you got it). This way your chin's experiences with changes it is experiencing at this time is kept at a minimum. Chins do not like change. The second week you can begin replacing 1/4 of the regular food with your new brand of food, then half and half the third week, 3/4 new food to 1/4 original brand the fourth week, the last week and there after you can feed it all the new brand. I always give you enough food to make this changeover for your chin when you pick it up. Or, if you are going to use the same feed, enough for about 2 weeks. Read the labels ~ Personally, I do not recommend keeping any bagged chin food for more than 90 days. Chinchilla food that is normally advertised as "Deluxe" usually has added treats, please do not offer this to your chinchilla. Chins will eat all the treats and leave the pellets ... just like a kid with the choice of ice cream/candy or spinach, will usually take the ice cream or candy and leave what is good for them.
The HAY can be Timothy hay or alfalfa hay. I prefer the loose bale Timothy hay for most of my adult chins and alfalfa cubes for the kits and breeding/nursing females. The type of hay available in your area may be the deciding factor as to which you feed them ... it MUST be fresh and free of any bugs or mold. The hay can come in two different forms -- loose bales or compressed cubes. Cubes should be broken up to a size that the chin can hold in it's paws. Hay should be given to chins fresh on a daily basis for roughage and nutrition in their diet and for control of the molar and pre-molar teeth growth to prevent the teeth from growing into the jaws/brain/tongue of the chin. Remove any uneaten hay daily, it can be soiled by a chin's urine! Hay can mold and produce a deadly bacteria called listeria monocytogenes. If a chin's teeth are allowed to grow and not kept in check with hay and a lava stone available on a daily basis, this is called malocclusion ... at it's worst, it is a slow painful death ... at it's best, it is uncomfortable and painful.
The DUST BATH DUST can be purchased in most pet stores and should be placed in a shallow pan (glass or metal) or a pan/container made especially for dust baths. A thin layer (about 1/4" deep) of chinchilla dust should be placed in the dish. The chin will do the rest. Which includes a dust cloud, so be prepared! It is best to do this in a room without carpeting. The bathtub or shower is easy to clean if you use them as the place for your chin to use it's dust bath container.
The dust, if soiled with urine, (clumping is a sign of the dust being soiled with urine) needs to be emptied and the container cleaned before being refilled with a fresh layer of dust bath dust. Droppings should be sifted out after each bath. If your chin is ill, use fresh dust bath dust each time and wash the container between each use. When you see the dust darkening or becoming grainy, it needs to be changed. Each cage of chins should have their own dust bath ... no sharing containers between cages. Sharing dust baths between cages can carry illnesses from one chin to another.
I recommend Blue Cloud dust, if accessible to you. Please do NOT use the sand type of dust bath, it is very harsh on your chin's fur. But, if you, or someone in your family is allergic to the dust, sand can be used, or even better ... someone else in the family can give your chin it's bath in the proper dust bath dust ... dust made especially for chinchillas.
A LAVA STONE is a MUST and is used to help keep your chins' teeth (incisors or front teeth) worn down to the appropriate size. Your chin will gently keep grinding his teeth down to the proper size by using the pumice or lava stone. This is necessary because if the teeth are allowed to become overgrown, it can become painful and even deadly to your chin.
EXERCISE WHEEL Should you choose an exercise wheel for your chin, please be very selective. An exercise wheel should mount to the inside of the cage, with no sidebars in which to catch or trap your chins' leg/foot/head (which could result in broken leg, neck or amputated feet). Many chins have also been seriously injured using wire wheels. An exercise wheel is not a necessity at first, especially if you get your chin out to play every day.
I use one called the "flying saucer exercise wheel" ... this is my personal choice and, in my opinion, the safest. There are no bars or wires to catch the limbs/neck/head of the chin and they can see other things going on in the room while they have their daily run. I like the tilted almost flat surface of the wheel. The flying saucer wheels can be found at: http://www.chin-chillas.com/index.htm. Exercise wheels should be a minimum of 15 inches in diameter to assure they do not interfere with the proper spinal growth of your chin. The rim of the wheel should be large enough that the chin can not get their teeth around the rim and chew holes in it. Please, again, do not use wheels made of plastic or wheels with bars on them.
An EXERCISE BALL is made of plastic, but can not be chewed on from the inside, and should be no smaller than 15" in diameter (JUMBO size), anything smaller will affect the curvature of the chin's spine as it grows. These balls are especially useful when you do not have the time to turn your chin loose to play (regardless, playtime should always be closely supervised). He can run around inside the ball and follow you around the house or just do exploring on his on and still be fairly safe. CAUTION; These balls have been known to pop open, freeing the chin. Be sure there are no open doors for him to go flying down the steps! Set a timer and DO NOT leave him in the ball for more than 10 to 15 minutes (he can become overheated ... the balls are almost solid and will retain the body heat of the chinchilla). You will be surprised at how quickly he learns to maneuver the ball. Some of my little ones enjoy 'chasing' the dogs through the house with it. Never use it outside in, the sun will quickly heat up the air inside the ball the same as it heats up the air in the car. Also, they have been known to break open ... it is next to impossible to catch a chin outside. Beware of floor heaters or vents ... an exercise ball can become super-heated if it rest near or on them while a chin is inside it. These balls are also known to 'break open' when a chin really gets going good, then comes to an im-moveable object, so please closely supervise your chin when it is in an exercise ball. Wash the ball between uses.
TREATS are a chin's specialty. Most chins love raisins, cranraisins (dried cranberries), rose hips, dried papaya, unsalted hulled sunflower seeds, dried whole wheat toast and/or fresh thoroughly cleaned *fruit and/or *vegetables given in very small portions ~ one or two small pieces per day or every other day, about the size of a sugar cube or smaller ... a piece of one, not of each one. Keep in mind ... as small as a raisin may look to us, in comparable size to a chin, a raisin is the size of a softball!
"No-No" Treats are fruits and vegetables grown with a pit in them, such as peaches, should not be given to a chinchilla.
Please do not give your chin nuts, their systems are not made to digest them and the oils in them can end in liver failure for your chin.
Do not give them fruits in the citrus family, such as oranges, limes,lemons, ect.
Fruits or vegetables high in water content, such as watermelon, lettuce and celery can give your chin diarrhea.
Never, never give your chin meat or meat by-products (such as rawhide bones) ... they will eat them, but it usually kills them, by swelling and blocking their digestive tracts within 24 to 48 resulting in death. Their systems are not made to digest meat. A chinchilla can not regurgitate, so once it is in his system, it is there to stay ... this is why chinchillas can be easily poisoned.
All of the information I have provided is from my personal experiences with chinchillas or those I have answered for me by other more experienced breeders or researchers. You may find many more questions as time goes by ... please feel free to e-mail me at joannfryeb2@cox.net. I will be glad to try to help you in anyway I can. There are no "dumb" questions, only regrets that they were not ask. Please, feel free to ask anything if you are not sure about the answer. If I do not know the answer, I will try to find it for you or, hopefully, be able to send you in the right direction to get the correct answer.
For those of you who are adopting a chinchilla from me:
If you decide this chin is not for you, I must be given first choice to reclaim this chinchilla. At my discretion, minus the quarantine and vet fees, I may or may not take back the chinchilla, it depends on the circumstances at the time.
When a chin is adopted from me, after verification from a qualified exotic pet vet, if there is any physical, in-born/heredity problem that develops within the first year, I will refund or replace (my choice) your chinchilla.
Jo Ann of Luv 'N Chins
540-345-7121 (Home)
540-353-0342 (Cell)
http://www.luvnchins.com/
joannfryeb2@cox.net
There are no "dumb" questions ...
Only regrets they were not asked ...
| Your Chinchilla ... Your New Family Member |
| by Jo Ann McCraw of Luv 'N Chins |
