Curious little creatures will find anything you can imagine to get into.
Hypoallergenic --- no smell and no fleas!
Ingenious --- particularly when it comes to finding a place to hide.
Naughty --- only when you let them in areas they should not be in.
Clever in finding ways to get your attention is the little chinchilla.
Hungry --- especially for treats, and they will let you know it!
Incredibly unique is this little fur-ball.
Love is what you will learn from them because that is what you will get.
Laugher at all the antics they do is better than any medicine!
Adorable little rascals who happily reside in their cages, sleeping
peacefully while you work. When your work is done, they are ready to
play and help you laugh away all the troubles of the day.
*** They never need very much -- just fresh water and fresh food every day and a
little cage cleaning once or twice a week. In return they excitedly run to greet you
when you enter the room, want to play or sit on your shoulder while you're on the
computer or run across your papers. A favorite trick of theirs is to steal your pencil
while you do your homework, but it can give him lead poisoning, so it's a 'no-no'.
He/she may decide your homework is rather tasty ... and will try it! Homework
with nibbled edges may have to be turned in to the teacher or your boss.
*** Be sure to schedule a special play time every day ... a minimum of 30
minutes ... try to make it the same time each day ... chinchillas prefer being on a
regular schedule. This time is just for you and your chinchilla ... no distractions
such as t.v. or a book. This is the time you bet to know your chin and visa versa.
The time will fly by with all the fun you'll have watching him/her run and bounce
off walls and furniture changing directions with each bound of endless energy, but
be sure to chin-proof before letting him/her out of their safe cage.
*** Become a child again -- lie on the floor and let them play with you! They'll tickle
your nose with their whiskers and comb your hair with their paws. If you're really
lucky you'll get 'sugars', too. When they sniff and smell, this is the proper way
chins say "Hello." So please, say "Hello" in return, in the proper chin manner,
go nose to nose and make a sniffing sound as you move down their side. They will
accept you as a "big chin'. A most delightful thought!
*** While you are on the floor, get a "chin's view" of all that is available to get into
and all the wonderful places to hide and explore, they will find them, they are very
curious creatures! Any opening over 1" in diameter (about the size of a quarter) is a
wonderful place to explore for the chinchilla, but can be very dangerous for them!
They can fit into the smallest of places! (One of mine came up 'missing' and was
found in the top drawer of my filing cabinet. He got there by going underneath and
up the back side of the drawers. This works for dressers, too. They love cozy hiding
places.
*** Beware: They are very fast and can get away from you in the blink of an eye.
Always close the door to the room so you will have only one room to search, should
your little one get loose/lost. They are also smart and strong for their size and some
will even learn how to escape from their cages when you leave the room (they're a
'pint-sized Houdini'). It's wise to double-lock the cage door and close the door to
the room ... it's impossible to 'chin-proof' the whole house.
*** Chin-proof, chin-proof, chin-proof! Chins have been known to jump from
and up to as high as 7 to 10 feet (their dept perception is not very good)! Many
people choose to play with their chins in the bathroom, because it's small and
easiest to watch where your chin is trying to hide. If you do, make sure the lid is
down and there is no water in the bathtub or sink! Why the bathroom? It is the
easiest room to chin-proof. Chin-proofing means you make sure there is nothing
your chin can get into that is dangerous. Dangers for a chin can be anything they
can find to eat or chew on that is not good for them! They will chew on anything -
wood, electrical wires, your food, even metals and plastic! Their little teeth are
designed to demolish and redecorate! Their speed and agility can allow them to, or
cause you to, topple/break a drinking glass/bottle or a jar. It's best to use a plastic
bottle with a cap, or a plastic glass with a lid or attached top while with your chin.
*** Don't worry about a fancy hut ... just a plain pine hut will do. They will
redecorate it to suit themselves! Keep some sanding paper handy to occasionally
sand down any rough edges or stains they may leave. If they nibble down to and
expose a nail or screw, remove or move it to a safer place on the hut. Only
seasoned untreated pine wood should be used for their hut! Hint: Screws are
usually easier to move or remove than nails are.
7" High 9" Wide 6" Deep
Made with 1" x 6" x 4'
Untreated Solid Pine
18 wood screws
4 metal "O" Rings
2 bolts with wing nuts
Cut: 2 sides 6" long
Top and Bottom 8" long
Back 9" long
** The softness of their fur is only surpassed by the spot in your heart they will
make if you will let them come in. A gentle voice and a snuggle close to you is
usually all they will need to calm them. Hold them close, but not too tight, for their
tiny bones are fragile, smaller than toothpicks. Never, never squeeze or grab them.
They have floating ribs that can easily puncture their lungs, do not hold or grab
them in the chest area. A punctured lung usually results in a slow painful death for
your chin within 24 hours. Instruct anyone that is going to hold your chin how do
hold it properly.
Let them jump into your hand or scoop them up, supporting their hind feet and
body at all times. A chin must feel safe and secure for him to trust you! If you feel
you must hold one in place (for his safety) ... while letting him nest in one hand
(against your body or on a table) use the other hand to hold him firmly, but gently,
about an inch from the base of the tail. Do Not hold them by the middle or end of
the tail -- you can break it.
A chin's fur can easily 'slip' (or be released by a chin) when you hold it, if it does
not want to be held. This is a means of protection that dates back to the chinchillas
in the wild.
*** Taking the time to learn their personalities is delightful (each one has a different
personality). They have all the emotions and feelings people do, please respect them
for this. They will let you know what they want or need in special ways. Pay close
attention and remember what they do, the sounds they make, or their location,
when they want something to let you know for future reference, what they
want/need. Listen to their sounds and watch where they stand in their cage. A
wonderful site to help you understand their sounds and what they mean is at:
http://www.chinchilla-sounds.de/index_en.htm.
*** Another reason for learning the normal things about your chin and amounts of
food intake, water intake and actions of your chinchilla is to warn you of early signs
of illness. When these things change, it can be a warning. In the wild, a chinchilla
could not show any signs of illness, weakness or injury, so it learned to hide or
disguise this problem ... unfortunately, it still carries this trait today. By the time
you realize your chin is sick, it may b/almot be, to late. When a chin needs a vet,
they need them NOW, not later in the week or next week. Best to be safe rather
than sorry!
*** Hungry? Some may turn their bowl over and stand on it to signal that it is
empty. Others may with their front paws on their bowl to show you that their bowl
is empty and they are hungry.
An empty water bottle is brought to your attention often by the chin pushing it or
rattling it. Empty, wash and re-fill with fresh water daily!
Try to get into a regular schedule for feeding your chin ... they thrive on a
schedule. You like your meals on time and look forward to them -- they do, too!
Morning and evening! A tablespoon or two each time for each chin. You will learn
to adjust the food amount by observing how much food is left over or if the bowl is
completely empty. Wash their bowls daily ~ you would not want to eat out of a dirty
dish, would you? Treats added to or mixed in with the chinchilla pellets you feed
them will provide an opportunity for them to eat the treats and leave the pellets or
dispose of the pellets for the preferred treats. Please do NOT add treats to your
chinchillas' pellets or buy chinchilla pellets/food with treats in them!
*** Treats are special ... make them so ... giving them separately. Use them to
reward your chin or to coax them back into their cage after play time.
Never feed your chin through the cage wires. Someone may stick a finger in to pet
them, only to find it will get nibbled (sometimes rather hard), especially if there is
the smell of food on it. Always play it safe -- wash your hands and face before
handling your chin. They do not have good sight, but their since of smell is very
good ... if it smells good to them, they will try to take a bite of it.
*** Each chin has its own special places to be rubbed or scratched. Under the chin,
behind the ears, on the belly, under the arm and on the front of the collar bone are
places I have found they most enjoy. The pleased look on their faces will be
evident. The way they tilt their head, raise up their whiskers and close their little
eyes in complete contentment is the sign of a very happy chin! Sometimes they
even appear to be smiling.
But, keep in mind, some chins are ticklish when it comes to their whiskers ... best
to steer clear of the whiskers ... chins usually do not like to be tickled and will let
you know it.
*** Just like us, sometimes chins can be a bit "moody." If one pushes your hand
away with its paws or "barks" at you ... take this as a sign that it needs 'its' space.'
Be respectful of this, the way you would want to be respected under the same
circumstances. But, talk softly to your chin and you may change its' mind.
Sometimes it just takes a little coaxing; but if you persist and he continues ... don't
'push your luck' ... you may get a nip, a bite or even get 'sprayed', if it happens to be
a female chinchilla!
It just takes a little time to learn what is or is not accepted by your little chin. You
have things, actions or mannerisms you will not accept, so do chins, respect this,
please. If they bite, do not hit or fuss at them, you were doing something wrong,
figure out what you did wrong and do not do it again!
*** Bath time is another time to enjoy -- just wear a painter's mask! They will flip
and turn in their bath dust fast and furiously, flinging dust into the air with
complete joy. Chinchillas prefer to be clean! Dust bathing is best done in a room
without carpet. The bath tub or shower stall are great ... all you have to do is wash
the dust down the drain (as long as it's just a little bit of dust).
It doesn't seen to matter how much mess is made because you are laughing so hard
at this funny, furry little ball flipping over and over in a pan of dust -- flinging dust
clouds into the air, shaking it off like a dog, then doing it again! Such a strange way
you might think to stay clean, but the dust absorbs the excess oils and lanolin from
the fur and keeps the fur soft, fluffy and in good condition. The dust bath keeps the
fur from matting, if the fur shows signs of separating or matting, it's past bath
time!Please use dust bath dust ONLY ... not dust bath sand. I give my chins a dust
bath 2 to 3 times a week. Some will give their chins dust bathes daily, but when
the humidity is low (under 35%), sometimes due to an inside heating system in the
winter, this is not advisable and can cause the skin to dry out and, sometimes, even
break open.
*** Normally, the rule is: never put your chin in water, unless instructed to do so by
your vet, in an emergency situation. If he/she does get wet or covered in
something sticky you need to clean him/her. Very carefully rinse away the sticky
stuff with a warm, soft, dampened wash cloth or baby wipe (or in warm water if
he/she's really messy, but try not to get it any wetter than necessary), then gently
blot it with a dry towel (paper towels are usually more absorbent than cloth, so line
your towel or cloth with paper towels), as you gently blow it dry. You can blow dry
with your mouth or with a blow dryer ... if you use a blow dryer, use it only on the
lowest settings (lowest heat and lowest blow settings) and constantly move the
dryer quickly back and forth and about 8 to 10 inches away from your chin ... do
not over heat your chin! Chinchillas will also easily chill when wet and become
sick, so please keep them warm until they are completely dry!
*** Temperature. The most comfortable temperature for a chin is between 60 and
70 degrees. Do not exceed 75 degrees ... this, for any length of time, can be lethal.
If you travel with your chin: do not, even for a minute or two, leave him/her in the
car. The temperature rises quickly inside a car - too many chin owners have
returned to their car only to find their precious little one gone from heat stroke.
When the outside temperature is 70 or 80 degrees F, a car can heat up to 120+
degrees in less than 10 to 15 minutes! Result: one dead chin. The best rule of
thumb is to take the temperature (F) + the humidity, if the total of the two numbers
meet or exceed 150, your chin is in trouble of heat stroke and/or death!
*** All the joy wrapped up inside a little ball of soft fur called a chinchilla ... this is
what you now hold and are responsible for it's health and happiness ... keep it
healthy and happy and it may live 20 + years or more when properly cared for by
you!
*** Before you get your chin, find a good exotic pet veterinarian that knows about
and has had experience with chinchillas, not all do. He or she will become your best
friend when your chin needs care. These are usually listed as exotic pet
veterinarians. If you do not have an exotic pet veterinarian in your area, find a vet
that is willing to learn, or at least has had experience with guinea pigs, gerbils and
hamsters, if an exotic pet vet is not available. Many veterinarians will prefer NOT
to undertake the additional learning necessary to care for chinchillas ~ do not
assume they will be willing to do so. Please, check it out!
Also, most regular vets see cats ... cats can carry feline distemper ... deadly within
24 hours for a chinchilla ... and highly contagious! Do not wait to contact the vet at
a time when you really need him, give him/her time to gather the information they
will need to help you before your chin needs him/her. It is best to let your vet see
your chin when it is healthy, so that they can have an idea what to compare it to
when or if it becomes ill. If you need to call the vet, be sure to be able to give
him/her specifics as to why your chin is not acting normal ... Decrease in water
intake? Eating less? Not as perky? Diarrhea or foul smelling poops? Runny or
matted eyes? Drooling? Mucous-covered feces. All these are a sign of illness and
need to be treated immediately! Also, check the qualifications of the vet that will
be covering for your vet if they will be out of town.
*** You need to find a suitable place and room for your chin to live. Chinchillas can
NOT be put in direct sunlight due to the possibility of overheating or in a draft from
a window or air vent (hot or cold). Remember that the sun may shine in one
window one time of the day and another window at a different time, or will shine
on different parts of the room at different times of the day. Watch the path of the
sunbeams throughout the day. Chins need to be in an area that does not get a large
amount of daily traffic, for this is when they sleep the most. Your bedroom is
normally considered unsuitable, because night time is when chins play most and
you normally sleep. However, many people can become accustomed to the sounds
of their chins and sleep peacefully.
Supplies for Your Chinchilla
When you purchase the supplies for your chin, remember he will probably be with
you for many years. Their life span is on the average of 10 to 15 years, some have
been known to live as long as 20 + years, even up to 30 years or more. Their
supplies should be the best available that you can afford.
The cage should be at least 17" x 23" x 30" and two or three levels (and/or wooden
leaping ledges) with side and top wire no more than 1/2" x 1". The 1/2" by 1" or
smaller wire is a must, not just a guideline. When a female chin becomes pregnant
and delivers her kits, the top one or two levels (leaving only the bottom level
accessible) should be closed off and not used until the kits are 3 to 4 weeks old.
Kits are born fully furred and eyes open. Usually they will be playing within 15 to
30 minutes after being born. Kits will usually climb (within 24 hour of birth) the
sides of the cage as high as possible ... they can climb up but not down ... when they
reach the top they will just turn loose and drop to the bottom. Please make sure the
bottom level or the whelping cage is no taller than 15" and that there is a good soft
layer of bedding at the bottom. Wire under their feet should be no larger than ½" x
½" to avoid a foot or leg being caught and possibly broken, or the use of a solid
bottom is also good. Some owners prefer wire, some wood and some a combination
of wire and wood. When using wood, remember, it must be cleaned regularly with
sandpaper, especially if your chin develops diarrhea or if it gets soiled with urine.
This will have to be your own personal choice. The wood should be pine and not
chemically treated! Please do not use pressed wood, plywood or laminated wood.
Most of these can contain a glue that is toxic to chinchillas and can cause liver
failure. Lamination will be eaten by your chin and will not soften in the digestive
track and can cause major internal problems.
Personally, I prefer a combination of both wire and wood, with a metal pull out
tray or drop in pan for easy cleaning and for the safety of your chin. Stainless steel
looks best, last longer and is easier to clean, is the most expensive on the front end,
but is the best in the long run. Galvanized steel can be used, and is less expensive
but does not clean as easily and can rust. Aluminum is a 'no-no', it will be eaten by
your chin and is dangerous for them! Yes, they will eat aluminum! How would you
like metal shavings in your tummy?
Most cages come with a plastic pan, which is fine if there is a wire bottom
between the chin and the plastic pan. If not, you may find that your chin has
decided that the plastic is a good chew toy ... but not good for the digestive tract ...
no plastics, please! If there is no wire bottom, or if you remove it, a metal pan of
stainless steel or galvanized steel can be custom made by a local metal-works
business. Keep in mind your chin will need air circulation, not a fan or a draft, but
the air must be able to circulate from the out side to the inside of the cage the same
as the normal air flow in your home. No aquariums, please! Caution: Aquariums
provide no ventilation, they allow heat to build up inside of them, moisture from
the chin's urine has a perfect breeding ground for bacteria in an aquarium or an
enclosed cage without ventilation. Wood sides or bottoms restrict air flow and are a
breeding ground for bacteria.
The hut and shelves are best made of solid pine wood, in my opinion. The huts do
not have to be fancy, the chins will 'redecorate' them to suite themselves. :) The
huts need to be at least 5 to 6" deep and long enough to reach from side to side or
front to back of the cage. I use a 5-sided hut and a slightly smaller 4-sided hut
attached to the top/side of the inside of the cage as a 'look-out'. Note: I said
attached to the side or top of the cage (with screws and solid rings) ... huts can be
flipped/turned over when chins play or when they decide to re-arrange their cage, if
they are not attached, a flipped hut can kill/crush a kit or even an adult chin.
Chins love to see what is going on around them, please do not set cages on the floor,
they prefer a place where they can see everything that is going on.
Plan on sanding the wood a little, about every two or three weeks (more often, if
needed) to soften any rough edges where the chins have chewed it. Also, if the hut
is put together with nails or screws, keep on the alert for chewed areas where your
chin has exposed a nail or screw. Remove and/or move the nail or screw. We use
only screws, these are much easier to move, when necessary. They also allow you
to more easily replace sides of the hut that have been chewed away. Some glues are
toxic, please do not glue your chins huts or toys together. Slide together or set in
pieces are great, but harder to replace. NO PLASTICS, please, this can be fatal to
them. They will chew on the plastic and the pieces of plastic they ingest will
remain sharp and hard can cause internal problems. PVC pipe is the exception to
the rule. PVC plumbing pipe comes off in a dust form, not in pieces. 4" diameter
"T"s and "Y" s are great for a chin to play in/hide in/sleep in. ;)
The bedding is best made of pine shavings that have been dried or come from
seasoned wood. Do not use cedar or other hard woods, because many of them are
deadly to chins. Do not use fresh, unseasoned pine. DO NOT use wood or wood
shavings that have come from pressure-treated wood. Be sure the wood you use is
untreated pine. Caution: Many wood beddings made for small pets contain cedar,
cedar is deadly to chins. Make sure the one you purchase does not contain cedar.
Cedar is often used to control odor and insects ... neither of which is a problem with
chinchillas. Chins do not have insects (such as fleas) due to their beautiful thick
fur, fleas can not reach the skin. Changing the bedding once a week or more will
control the odor of urine -- chins have no other odors, except the females in season,
or if the chin is sick.
The food bowl is best made of ceramic, because it is usually the heaviest with
straight sides to prevent tipping. The bottom needs to be flat and rather large in
comparison to the size of the bowl. Straight sides are a must so that it will not tip
over. Chins tend to stand on the side of the bowl when eating. Occasionally, even a
ceramic bowl can be tipped over, which is not a problem, unless a young kit is
trapped underneath it. A metal food bowl that is attached to the side of the cage is
also a good option and can be found in the bird section of most pet stores. "J"
feeders, if you can find them, that are properly attached to the cage are usually safe
for the kits as well as the adult chinchillas.
The water bottle should be made of glass, unless you like to clean up water
puddles and replace bottles frequently. Also, glass is easier sterilized. Chins are
notorious for chewing a hole in a plastic bottle, even when it is mounted on the
outside of the cage. However, a metal guard placed between the plastic water bottle
and the cage can often prevent the chins from chewing it.
DO NOT place water in a bowl for your chins, especially if there is a baby kit. If a
chin becomes wet, it can chill and become ill. Kits can drown in even the smallest
of bowls. The bottles should be sterilized at least once a week and washed in hot
soapy water daily. Rinse and refill with fresh water daily is a MUST. Do not just
add water ... empty, rinse and refill with fresh water. Water contains microscopic
germs that can multiply when water is left over 24 hours. These 'microscopic
germs' are usually harmless to us, but can kill a chin. Bottled water, after opening,
can also be a breeding ground for germs.
The food should be made for chinchillas only, in my opinion. There are some
people that will tell you that it is okay to feed chins rabbit pellets, I do not agree
unless it is Manna Pro Sho. In the United States the hormones are not added to
rabbit food. But, as I feed my cats cat food, my dogs dog food, I also feed my chins
chinchilla food, made especially for them and their delicate systems. Check the
freshness date on the bag and also see if there is an excessive amount of sediment at
the bottom. If your chinchilla food is not dated ... don't buy it! If there is very
much sediment in the bottom, it may mean the food is old or has been improperly
stored and lost most of its nutritional value. In this case, you would be giving them
an empty filler with no nutritional value. I use Mazuri Chinchilla Pellets, it has a
date on the container that will tell you the date it was made, this is known as the
mill date. It will retain it's nutritional value for 120 days from that date, if properly
stored, according to Purina Foods.
Food should be stored in a cool, dry place (preferably in a heavy air-tight
container), under 70 degrees. The higher the temperature, the faster it will
break-down. If you use a different brand of food from which your chin is
accustomed, then your food needs to be introduced slowly into the diet. The first
week feed your chin only its usual brand of food (the same as it was being fed before
you got it). This way your chin's experiences with changes it is experiencing at this
time is kept at a minimum. Chins do not like change. The second week you can
begin replacing 1/4 of the regular food with your new brand of food, then half and
half the third week, 3/4 new food to 1/4 original brand the fourth week, the last
week and there after you can feed it all the new brand. I always give you enough
food to make this changeover for your chin when you pick it up. Or, if you are
going to use the same feed, enough for about 2 weeks. Read the labels ~ I do not
recommend any bagged chin food that has expiration dates of more than 90 days or
has preservatives in it. Chinchilla food that is normally advertised as "Deluxe"
usually has added treats, please do not offer this to your chinchilla. Chins will eat
all the treats and leave the pellets ... just like a kid with the choice of ice
cream/candy or spinach, will usually take the ice cream or candy and leave what is
good for them.
The hay can be Timothy hay or alfalfa hay. I prefer the loose bale Timothy hay for
most of my adult chins and alfalfa cubes for the kits and breeding/nursing females.
The type of hay available in your area may be the deciding factor as to which you
feed them ... it MUST be fresh and free of any bugs or mold. The hay can come in
two different forms -- loose bales or compressed cubes. Cubes should be broken up
to a size that the chin can hold in it's paws. Hay should be given to chins fresh on a
daily basis for roughage and nutrition in their diet and for control of the molar and
pre-molar teeth growth to prevent the teeth from growing into the
jaws/brain/tongue of the chin. Remove any uneaten hay daily, it can be soiled by a
chin's urine! Hay can mold and produce a deadly bacteria called listeria
monocytogenes. If a chin's teeth are allowed to grow and not kept in check with
hay and a lava stone available on a daily basis, this is called malocclusion ... at it's
worst, it is a painful death ... at it's best, it is uncomfortable and painful.
The dust bath dust can be purchased in most pet stores and should be placed in a
shallow pan (glass or metal) or a pan/container made especially for dust baths. A
thin layer (about 1/4" deep) of chinchilla dust should be placed in the dish. The
chin will do the rest. Which includes a dust cloud, so be prepared! It is best to do
this in a room without carpeting. The bathtub or shower is easy to clean if you use
them as the place for your chin to use it's dust bath container.
The dust, if soiled with urine, (clumping is a sign of the dust being soiled with
urine) needs to be emptied and the container cleaned before being refilled with a
fresh layer of dust bath dust. Droppings should be sifted out after each bath. If your
chin is ill, use fresh dust bath dust each time and wash the container between each
use. When you see the dust darkening or becoming grainy, it needs to be changed.
Each cage of chins should have their own dust bath ... no sharing containers
between cages. Sharing dust baths between cages can carry illnesses from one chin
to another.
I recommend Blue Cloud dust bath, if accessible. Please do NOT use the sand type
of dust bath, it is very harsh on your chin's fur. But, if you, or someone in your
family is allergic to the dust.sand can be used, or even better ... someone else in the
family can give your chin it's bath in the proper dust bath dust ... dust made
especially for chinchillas.
Supplements can be vitamin supplements, nutrients or calcium. The vitamin
supplements can vary from special ones from your vet, to ones you can order on line
.such as the Kline Supplement, to their own treats. Calcium supplements are found
in calf manna or Alimax or cuttle bones, but know your manufacturer and the
quality of the calf manna. If, for any reason your chins reject the calf manna,
dispose of it ... it may be contaminated. Calcium is a must with all chins, but
especially with nursing chins and growing kits. Vitamin C, with no added sugar, is
a very good supplement. Papaya is a good natural source for vitamin C. Nutri-Cal is
also a good supplement to keep on hand for nursing moms and sick chins, but
should only be used in place of treats not in addition to treats and in small amounts
... about the size of a small pea per day, when they are sick.
A lava stone is a MUST and is used to help keep your chins' teeth (incisors or front
teeth) down to the appropriate size. Your chin will gently keep grinding his teeth
down to the proper size by using the pumice or lava stone. This is necessary
because if the teeth are allowed to become overgrown, it can become painful and
even deadly to your chin.
Should you choose an exercise wheel for your chin, please be very selective. An
exercise wheel should mount to the inside of the cage, with no sidebars in which to
catch or trap your chins' leg/foot/head (which could result in broken leg, neck or
amputated feet). Many chins have also been seriously injured using wire wheels.
An exercise wheel is not a necessity at first, especially if you get your chin out to
play every day.
I use one called the "flying saucer exercise wheel" ... this is my personal choice and
in my opinion the safest. There are no bars or wires to catch the limbs/neck/head
of the chin and they can see other things going on in the room while they have
their daily run. I like the tilted almost flat surface of the wheel. The flying
saucer wheels can be found at: http://www.chin-chillas.com/index.htm. Exercise
wheels should be at least 15 inches in diameter to assure they do not interfere with
the proper spinal growth of your chin. The rim of the wheel should be large enough
that the chin can not get their teeth around the rim and chew holes in it. Please,
again, do not use wheels made of plastic.
An exercise ball is made of plastic, but can not be chewed on from the inside, and
should be no smaller than 15" in diameter (jumbo size), anything smaller will affect
the curvature of the chin's spine as it grows. These balls are especially useful when
you do not have the time to turn your chin loose to play (regardless, playtime
should always be closely supervised). He can run around inside the ball and follow
you around the house or just do exploring on his on and still be fairly safe. Be sure
there are no open doors for him to go flying down the steps! Set a timer and DO
NOT leave him in the ball for more than 10 to 15 minutes (he can become
overheated ... the balls are almost solid and will retain the body heat of the
chinchilla). You will be surprised at how quickly he learns to maneuver the ball.
Some of my little ones enjoy 'chasing' the dogs through the house with it. Never
use it outside in, the sun will quickly heat up the air inside the ball the same as it
heats up the air in the car. Also, they have been known to break open ... it is next
to impossible to catch a chin outside. Beware of floor heaters or vents ... an
exercise ball can become super-heated if it rest near or on them while a chin is
inside it. These balls are also known to 'break open' when a chin really gets going
good, then comes to an im-moveable object, so please closely supervise your chin
when it is in an exercise ball. Wash the ball between uses.
Treats are a chin's specialty. Most chins love raisins, cranraisins (dried
cranberries), rose hips, dried papaya, unsalted hulled sunflower seeds, dried whole
wheat toast and/or fresh thoroughly cleaned *fruit and/or *vegetables given in very
small portions ~ one or two small pieces per day or every other day, about the size
of a sugar cube or smaller ... a piece of one, not of each one. Keep in mind ... as
small as a raisin is, in comparable size to a chin, a raisin is the size of a softball!
*"No-no Treats" Fruits and vegetables grown with a pit in them, such as peaches,
should not be given to a chinchilla.
Please do not give your chin nuts, their systems are not made to digest them and
the oils in them can end in liver failure for your chin.
Please do not give them fruits in the citrus family, such as oranges, limes,
lemons, ect.
Fruits or vegetables high in water content, such as watermelon, lettuce and celery
can give your chin diarrhea.
Never, never give your chin meat or meat by-products (such as rawhide bones) ...
they will eat them, but it usually kills them, by swelling and blocking their digestive
tracts within 24 to 48 resulting in death, usually. Their systems are not made to
digest meat. A chinchilla can not regurgitate, so once it is in his system, it is there
to stay ... this is why chinchillas can be easily poisoned.
All of the information I have provided is from my personal experiences with
chinchillas or those I have answered for me by other more experienced breeders or
researchers. You may find many more questions as time goes by ... please feel free
to e-mail me at joannfryeb2@cox.net . I will be glad to try to help you in anyway I
can. There are no "dumb" questions, only regrets that they were not asked. Please,
feel free to ask anything if you are not sure about the answer. If I do not know the
answer, I will try to find it for you or, hopefully, be able to send you in the right
direction to get the answer.
For those of you who are adopting a chinchilla from me:
If you decide this chin is not for you, at my discretion, minus the quarantine and
vet fees. I may or may not take back the chinchilla. It depends on the
circumstances at the time.
When a chin is adopted from me, after verification from a qualified exotic pet
vet, if there is any physical, in-born/heredity problem that develops within the first
year, I will refund or replace your chinchilla.
Jo Ann of Luv 'N Chins
540-345-7121 (Home)
540-353-0342 (Cell)
http://www.luvnchins.com/
joannfryeb2@cox.net
There are no "dumb" questions ...
Only regrets they were not asked ...
| Your Chinchilla ... Your New Family Member |
| by Jo Ann McCraw of Luv 'N Chins |
